The week began with a blockbuster production from Hugo, the younger diffusion line Hugo Boss, on the banks of the Spree. Bruno Pieters, who took over the design a year ago, sent variations on the tuxedo black, white and royal blue, often accessorized with
starched bow; models like Olga Scherer, Alana Zimmer, Iekeliene Strange and Tanya D. tracked down the track as a restoration team intimidatingly chic. Kim Cattrall and Mischa Barton were in the audience, the latter sporting an unfortunate haircut that looked like a wig short wig combo-over-long. Pieters brought a touch Teutonic boxiness Belgian Boss, playing with the proportions and mixing masculine / feminine, androgynous trend with the mood that marked the recent men's collections.
That night, after a private dinner hosted by Hugo Boss at the Grill Royal, Joop! Jeans hosted his own show next to the infamous bacchanal Berghain disco, and very appropriate, packed with clothes perfect for the kid's club on a limited allocation. The vast sculptural hats and white geisha vibe is indebted to Alexander McQueen, a line of jeans, it was pretty impressive. Natasha Poly prowled on stage, accompanied by a plethora of anorexic young boys who are Berlin's special contribution to the world of modeling masochists. A decadent after-party followed at the Panorama Bar upstairs, where justice was spinning until dawn.
When it comes to brands, Berlin is well represented (although, interestingly, the German fashion-grandmother, Escada, which has been vainly tried to rebrand to attract a younger audience, chose not shown). But when it comes to less established designers, there is less to see. Some of the best young talents are off-site: Lala Berlin create a sophisticated ambience with sinuous cashmere sweaters elegant silk dresses to tailor your presentation to the Seven Star Gallery, while presents an eclectic group projektGalerie independent, often craft designers from all over Europe at the forefront of multiple exposure over Torstrasse Mitte.
Most successful German fashion design is centered around retaining Simplified (whose show Strenesse Blue, with its light weight fabrics, hems and small clean cuts was a commendable example), but sometimes it buttoned, hands-on approach gives rise to outside the order, as expressionist urge local favorite, Scherer Gonzalez, who seems to have something for twenty pounds of ball gowns and six inches Baroque Lucite platforms decorated with flowers. The result is an unequivocal argument for repression.
The last two sessions of the week were both imports. Anglomania by Vivienne Westwood was typically zany romp through his greatest hits, from iconic squiggle print dresses to asymmetrically draped and gathered between brilliant. The best show of the week, however, belonged to New York, Kai Kühne, who returned to the motherland to present its Signature collection. Kühne hit his stride by channeling a unique Helmut Newtonesque aesthetic: an army of straight hair, lipstick beauties stalked the runway in the skin taut, razor broad-shouldered pantsuits and complex seamed silk dresses in assorted metallic colors. In a culture dominated by cool supernatural, offers this kind of precision voltage sensual in the sexual power that works in composite exterior in Germany - and it is an approach that the designers of Berlin served us well to continue to investigate.
Instead of looking to other designers for inspiration, you just have to unzip its unique cultural heritage complex. What Lies Beneath (totalitarian tendencies, fetishistic sexuality, perfectionist zeal) are things that the genius of fashion is done.