Exquisite style and intrinsically embroidered in Abha, the traditional costume of the region of Kutch, came into the world of haute couture. Successfully adapted to modern styles of Anjali Mangaldas, this beautiful garment has become a rage with the fashion-conscious women.In the town of Kutch, the women looked beautiful in their Abhas fabulous, and that influenced the music. Mischievously twinkling lights played the son of gold embroidery and sequins and all work Badl flashed continuously. A woman in Abha, the traditional dress of the Khatri community, and Muslims Memon Korjo Kutch is a sight to behold. The pledge of Kutch district of Gujarat has a history that is as colorful and exciting as the garment. In ancient times, women wore decorated with beautiful embroidery Abha wire tie dye designs, which was very Zari embroidery minutes and colorful silk or cotton threads on a combination of a variety of stitches, including tiny hard mirrors in its development and distinctive pattern.
The word derives from the word Abha ABA is commonly used in Middle Eastern countries, namely from the top of a dress or coat. Abha is based on ancient traditional classic cut and style, is basically a Kurta Kalida without the incision site, which will lose its shine and hangs lower than normal Kurta. Abha is a collector's item, because in the last four generations. Abha is a collector's item, because in the last four generations. The best are even auctioned off for the western part of the collection and study of Christy Sotheby 's, researchers have not yet been able to identify the historical period, or the impact of these costumes. Unfortunately, modernity has forced these wonderful costumes as part of the museums or the wooden boxes in remote villages. Genuine Abkhazia could date back almost a hundred years.
Anjali Mangaldas of the famous family of Ahmedabad Hutheesing has worked tirelessly to revive the forgotten past of Abha. A student of textile design from the Royal College of Art in London and the Yale School of Art and Architecture in New Haven, United States, interest in costumes Anjali has remained constant. In 1983, she decided that the draft Abha, as they were intended. There is a new rage of ethnic Indian styles in the fashion market, and the word used to Abha all kinds of embroidered garments that have no relation to the real Abha. Over the last 30 years of old clothes and costumes authentic become scarce as new versions appear garbled. Anjali was not interested in cutting up pieces embroidered patch folk clothing. She has worked with care, for two years with the tailors and artisans measurement and study many Abha. What began as a challenge evolved into a small business.
Total wardrobe consists of three parts, Abha and Ijara kumbh.
Design features of Abha is a tie-dye work on the sides and hem and sleeves, a round medallion at the top of the sleeve, the yoke from the shoulder, and front and rear, and makes the geometric shape of a typical end of a large semi- stylized floral motifs in Abha half. The simplicity or complexity, and tie-dye and the amount of work that covers the area, is the degree of wealth of Abha, such as the use and age of the users. It is easier for them to everyday use and develop them for special occasions. The materials were used in Abha and Atalas Gaji, or a fine selection of Chinese silk and cotton muslin easier. The garment is decorated with gold thread embroidery around the neck and shoulders. He also seams to join the center of the two sides adorned with embroidery and zari lace front and rear.
Kumbh odhani is always a square or tie-dye work, which is arranged in a pattern completely different from the other odhanis. It 'consists of a long piece of material, such as Sari with Zari Pallu (angle) at the other end. Directly to the chassis fabric and cut them in half lengthwise and joined together to do some 'Pallu elongated square. Richer kumbhis sequins are embroidered in gold or BADL above the seam. The simplest ones are just caught in the long Zari lace border. Very often cruinkles will tie-dye to create unusual effects.
The ijkar or trousers were made of plain mushrooms Atala Gaji tie-dyed or plain or lined decorated with gold embroidery. The boundaries are often Ijar embroidered to match the pattern of the neck of Abha. The most important are embroideries up to 10-20 cm above the ankle of the line in different styles
Abkhazia old was embroidered with a specific amount of gold thread. Chain was constantly obliged to fill the shape. Attached to the upper surface of the material, or cotton yarn sewn around the saffron-yellow cycle to form a coherent pattern. The whole area of the embroidery was then beaten with a wooden hammer to lower the wire, fill a small space between the gloss and polish the gold. Depending on the imagination of the artisans and the requirement of the design, sequins and metallic embroidery was often added to gold thread embroidery. Abha today can be measured in thousands. Anjali creations ranging from Rs.3500 / - and Rs.25, 000 / -. Abkhazia old are, of course, valuable, and appreciate its value is reluctant to part with them.
Anjali experienced embroidery machine with manual control alone and in combination with hand embroidery. It has developed its own arrangements in the cut and style of clothes, without losing the essence of the complaint.
Undoubtedly, these abhasa before, now extinct in the region and most of the museum pieces, had perfected a sophisticated area of Banni embroidery. There are countless beautiful and finely embroidered costumes National, which is decorated with women of different cultures and communities around the world, but today Abha is unique and differs from the particular characteristics of all other national costumes of the region and other parts of the world .
Abha is remarkable that maintains its own high place, even in a region famous for its rich and varied tradition of embroidered costumes. Anjali Mangaldas was responsible for the organization and establishment of the Museum of Folk Art in Gujarat, which opened in 1976, became a tourist attraction soon after. Today, Abha and Anjali Mangaldas are synonymous, and that had thrown all his energy in gathering a collection for the evaluation of experts and share the joy of creating something beautiful with all those who understand beauty.
Soon word spread and people started coming to his own clothing specially designed for it and some that belong to others. But Anjali said that the overall revitalization of Abha is not possible because the highly sophisticated and complex tie-dye patterns is impossible to recreate. In addition, there is no back and artisans Atala, Gaji and Chinese silk used is not available and real Zari thread is extremely expensive to use. As sequins and other metallic materials are not readily available in gold or real money, which limits the design. And so the only option open to the exploitation of resources in the art of embroidery was to use the next best Zari thread and material resources to develop the new Abha in the modern era. In his experiments, Anjali kept Abha cut and style and embroidery, it explored the possibilities of the chain mesh and work in silk thread arii color too.
A typical neck opening slitlike over his shoulder, straight on both sides tied with a loop and button ball of cloth to hold it in place. A few openings still ahead. Marriage is inextricably Abha embroidered on the front yoke, full sleeves, sewing the seams and is a marvel of high craftmenship. Easier to Abha is decorated with gold bands or teiwork. The old Abha is a tribute to the women of Kutch, which dominate the profession of needle and aesthetic sensibility is without comparison.
